L'potenza di un Sorriso (The power of a Smile)

It's just after 5p.m. and the best part of the day in Siena. The main drag is crowded with practically all the people of the city huddled in twos, or fives, or sixes, talking about everything under the sun (at least to me, the girl who speaks un poco Italiano). But as I stroll down the street, taking my time the way a good American study abroad student should, no language barrier could be thick enough to mask my beaming smile.

The old men are my favorite, and they know it as I flash my glossy whites at them. Sometimes I wonder if they think I'm strange for the wide-eyed smile on my face. Do they think I'm flirting, or god-forbid an American "prostitute" that so many Italians apparently watch on MTV? (That's their language choice, not mine.) I wonder if a smile like mine is familiar to them... if so many young and excited women from the U.S. visit their town and share with them an unspoken connection of appreciation, of eagerness, of perfection found in this rich cultural community. Either way, there's something so powerful, so universal about the distance a smile can travel...so I make sure to carry it with me wherever I go.

A presto, genti belle. What smile have you shared lately?

"If you smile at me, I will understand. Because that is something everybody, everywhere does in the same language."
-Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young

ps-It's been hard finding an Internet connection strong enough to allow me to upload pictures. I'll add them as soon as I can!

Propaganda or Art?

Dumping the riches to the poor--the floor of the Duomo in Siena.

There are some things you don’t talk about with new Italian friends. The same goes for new friends of any region, but in Italy, mention the word politics and the amiable dinnertime clamor falls quiet with tension and suspense. Then someone mentions through a polite chuckle that it’s best we don’t talk politics, and moves on to conversation about the delicious food and wine.

This is a tough lesson for me to learn, a tough line for me to walk, considering my rebellious political side and my inclination to strike challenging questions. Nevertheless, this is Italy and there are already enough Americans running around wanting all the charm and history of this nation, but all the convenience and comfort of their own. So I’ll try not to push the wrong buttons or cross the bolded lines with my new Italian friends. Not until they learn that my questions have no scrutiny, only curiosity, and my challenges have no winners, only interesting outcomes. Trust takes time here--time and an ability to communicate clearly, which I'm working on everyday.

Ironically, although casual conversations about politics (and religion) are reserved for close and trusted friends only, messages from the state are blazoned on walls abound. Two words: Renaissance Art. This past weekend I traveled to the fantastic city of Venice for their famous celebration of Carnivale (which is room for a separate blog all together--soon, I promise). In this city of canals and bridges, tucked between construzoni colorati e romantici (colorful and romantic buildings), churches and galleries from the 1300's sit with Bellini's masterpieces covering their interiors. An amazing sight for any person to see--artists, devouts, atheists, and architects alike. This propaganda is ART, and in Italy, art is what connects the dear values of family, religion, and Italian pride. But ask one of the Italians looking at the museum walls what they think about the stories they've been told, and you'd hear only the echo of shoes scuffing the marble floors. I'm sensitive and respectful to this reserved means of expression--but like I said, a hard lesson for little-miss-rebel over here to embrace. Ah, but to grow and develop more global tolerance is part of why I'm studying abroad, isn't it?

The modern collection of Peggy Guggenheim was a great break from Madonna and Child. The more subjective art is easier for my to swallow in large quantities :o).

On a seperate note, I would love to get some e-mails from friends and family. I've had very limited Internet access and phone calls are really costly, but when I do find the time to check my mail, it's always such a pleasure to hear from loved ones. I'm making so many great connections to both Italians and Americans here, but there's nothing like hearing what's going on in the lives of the people who mean the most to me. (rachmddx@gmail.com)

What interesting discoveries are you making where you are today?

Io sono a Siena! (I am in Siena!) and some of the beauty that lies here

Overlooking the Piazza del Campo from the Duomo Tower

In Siena the children are born knowing how to roll their R's and there's no such thing as a "close talker". Old men lean in to speak to each other as they stroll the cobblestone streets without hurry or fret. On their journey through the town, the locals stop occasionally, examining the jackets and boots in shop windows on "salde". The roads and the sidewalks here are one, leaving just enough width for a car to pass with pedestrians on either side. But tourists beware!--cars appear out of nowhere on these winding street-alleys, and will leave you startled and short of breath when you almost get hit by one!

Despite the potential danger of lightening fast vihecles, there's something magical about what lies beyond the bend. Siena was made in the 14th century before the profession of architecture existed, so the city rose without planning. Building by building, nine wealthy men added to what has now become a dense labrynth of seven story buildings with shops, cafés, pizzerias, and resturantes along the street level. The "belly-pop" of the city is the Piazza de Campo, a huge open space, landmarked by a magnificent towering town hall and cafés and bars facing inward.

Siena is a mound of authenticity. No, literally a mound. My calves are sore from walking up and down the stone streets everywhere I go. But I have no complaints--at least I'm walking off the mounds of pasta and pizza I've been chowing down on. (I'll save food descriptions for a different post.)Peeking around in small art galleries and wandering my way to the university that's 15 minutes from my hotel, I feel invigorated and lifeless simultaneously. My Italian language class is from 9 to 12:30 every day, but with the 15 minute walk and time for breakfast at the hotel, I'm waking up at 7 every morning. And do you really think that in a new, exciting Italian city, I ever get to bed before 2a.m.? 5 hours of sleep isn't cutting it. Luckily, the Italians know how to relax and enjoy life with a 2-3 hour siesta everyday around lunch time--perfect for napping!

Exciting things lie in store, including cooking classes, wine tastings, museum tours, and trips to amazing little Italian towns. Last night some friends and I found a really eccentric social pub called Bella Vista that has live AfroCuban music every Wednesday night. The musician, Moses from Guine, was there and made us reservations to sit right up front. I'll be sure to post about these experiences when I have time. Right now I can only use Internet at the school without my laptop, so pictures will be added later.

Siena is absolutely beautiful and I'm having a wonderful time. Of course, I miss home and loved ones, but the more I stay busy and embrace where I am, the more amazed I am that I'm here taking part in the experience of a lifetime. Adjustment always takes time--but let's be real here--there couldn't be a better place to have to adjust to!

Cioa!
Rachael

Arrivederci! Vedali presto! (Bye! See you soon!)

I think Ziggy's going to miss me ;) And the truth is, I'm going to miss that little pecker, too! (Okay, not too much... the dog's absolutely crazy. But he sure is good lookin'.)

My flight for London leaves at 10:02PM tomorrow night, and of course, I have all of 10 shirts packed & a pile of journaling supplies stacked on my couch. It's been a long haul getting together everything for the coming months in Italy--from my student Visa, to course approvals, to miscellaneous crap that will probably come in handy more than I know. But the haul has led me here to a river of emotions flowing rapidly with excitement, nerves, curiosity, and that tingling feeling you get when you know you're about to do something that will change your life forever. My goal is to hit the ground running, soaking in every moment of new adventure, culture, and art. I know that I'll miss loved ones while I'm away, especially Brian. But that's to be expected, and I can't & won't let it stop me from taking advantage of every opportunity that calls. I mean, I'm going to be living in the art capital of the world, taking a painting class on the hills of Tuscany, and drinking the best wine & espresso known to humankind. Could my semester hold more amazing things? I can't help but feel giddy inside.

So off to London I go for a 3 day stop over with my program, AIFS, before my 3 week orientation in Siena. Jodi, my best friend, will be in London for her study abroad. We're hoping to meet up in a pub for a world-famous room-temperature beer. Cheers, right?

Send me your mailing address and I'll send you a letter or postcard.

Peace & love,
Rachael

PS-With the hopes of keeping this blog as authentic as possible, I'll be copying portions from my journal & providing context and pictures, posting when it feels right, not out of obligation. Short & sweet could be the theme of this blog...it'll be better for us both, I think :)